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Welcome to our Fact Sheets Page

At Funkadelic Art Surprises we are constantly researching and developing new and innovative products. You won't find many products anywhere else because we have recently created them afresh. So, of course you will need some guidelines on how to use each new one. We are showing our creations at all stages of progress on our facebook page and artists who have created sensational art with our cool products also post onto our page. It is public, so please feel free to join us or just to browse our wall. Erbie an Linda on Facebook.


The graphic speaks for itself. You can either make your art directly onto the ELF Film or another neat idea it so make your art on our clear Polly Art Glarz and then lay the ELF under it. The effects are sensational.

Always remember to leave areas with little or no inks so that you get awesome areas of bare ELF reflecting through as intense colour.

CHIFFON INKS are definitely our recommended medium. They are light enough to let the light reflect back off the surface and they carry enough pearl pigment to mask just the right amount of the PAG. If you lay it on too thick you can easily use alcohol to thin it down and tip it from your work. I you lay it on too lightly you will get too much reflection which can reduce the magic. So, just add a bit more!

Always fix your sheets of ELF to a stable surface to work it and don't remove your tape or pins until after your final gloss and UV protectant sprays. (If you spray while it is not taped down the corners and sides will want to roll inward. Once it is completely dry however, it will remain flat if it is taped down).



All three of these stunning inks yield the best results when used on a glassy substrate.

Ceramic Tiles, Ceramic Objects, Ceramic Tile Paper, Glass, some Shiny Vinyl types, Shiny Plastic, Clear Acetate, Polly Art Glarz, Sheet Glass and our favorite, Wine Glasses! These all make wonderful reflective surfaces for these inks to show their best qualities upon. Anything dull or porous doesn't allow the light to play with the particles. Except. French Porcelain Paper. This light card is porous and doesn't take regular inks well, but because of it's creamy porcelain like finish- it actually reflects the particles incredibly well. The catch is that being porous it easily becomes sodden with the inks so you need to learn to work with a very light application. Being an expensive, top shelf ink this is a good idea in itself. You really do get used to making amazing pieces without pouring it haphazardly like we've all become used to with alcohol inks. These superb inks deserve respect and moderation. Polly Art Glarz and Clear Acetate have the added benefits of allowing you to add a background colour of your choice simply by placing what you want to use behind the PAG or Acetate that you painted upon.




Erbium Laser Burnish is used to create spectacular highlights on your work wherever you choose. It doesn't interfere with the inks so you

pretty much have carte blanche with where you use it. Funkadelic have a super tacky glue called TAKKA. You put the glue down wherever you want the highlight to be. Wait about 5 - 8 minutes until there is no moisture left, just super stickiness. It looks transparent at this stage but never actually dries out completely. You then lay your cut piece of Burnish ribbon DULL side DOWN towards the glue. Rub it with your finger or a burnishing tool. Pull the ribbon back off like removing a bandaid. The Erbium metal will now be stuck to the glue and there will be a bald spot on the ribbon. Voila, you are done!



Breath is a pre-measured and mixed base for a beautiful, wispy alcohol ink wash.

Because it is made from pure pigment there will always be sedimentation. This is drawn to the bottom by gravity. Shaking redistributes the pigment particles throughout the alcohol and using the ink while the pigment particles remain in suspension is best. Giving it extra shakes through out your painting process is recommended. Titanium Dioxide has some very harsh edges and may stay quite gritty. So shake and then leave for a few seconds while they settle to the bottom. HOWEVER there are techniques where this gorgeous grit works for you. In washes where you use the Breath as a base for other colours, the pigment particles look absolutely amazing as the drift around your coloured ink and make little white tracings and self etching. It has absolutely magnificent results if you pour and tilt a little then leave for nature to move about.

You will receive a 'mother' pouch that contains a concentration of preservatives, pigment, flow agent and binders that have been dissolved in a little alcohol. Before taking off the lid give it a really hard shaking. Pour into the bottle provided via a miniature funnel. (If you don't have one slip into Michael's or the like and pick one up before your package arrives. You'll want to mix it as soon as it arrives if you are anything like us)! If there is white sludge left in the bottom of the pouch just pour in some alcohol, shake again and pour into the same bottle. Repeat if it's pesky. Then top up the bottle with alcohol.

You may prefer to add alcohol gradually and test the opacity of your mix on your substrate at intervals. If you prefer it thicker and more opaque you don't have to add as much alcohol but keep in mind that this stuff is designed to build up transparent layers of smoky white on your surface which give those beautiful ghostly effects.

It stores well if you keep it in a cool, dry place out of sunlight and with the lid in place.


Beautiful Ceramic Tile Paper was designed especially for use with alcohol ink.

It wipes straight back to pure white making it super adaptable. Bigger pieces like the A2 size or rolls have a memory of the roll.

 As you use each piece give it a spray with water on the pearly side (the other side sticks to things when wet) and then press the same 

damp pearly side against a clean window. The surface tension will hold it there and in about 10 - 15 minutes it flattens. 

Always tape down to work and best practice is to use your Kamar and clear lacquer sprays before you remove the tape. (Personally, I let my finished art sit for a few days before gently removing the tape). Really wet glues like rubber cement should be avoided when mounting it, unless you use a very modest amount and allow it to partially dry on your board before adhering. We prefer to use dry glues with an even finish like Zettex Contact Spray Adhesive or Gorilla Spray Adhesive.

Sits beautifully in matt kits for a professional finish.

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